![]() ![]() This either tells you the maximum print size (if your camera resolution is the limiting factor) and/or the required image resolution from your camera/photographer. If you're asking this question well ahead of time, you can choose your PPD (and I suggest you pick at least 53, and anything beyond about 100 is wasted effort), and based on your viewing distance determine the required PPI. ![]() Note that larger viewing distances than the d calculated are OK, it's just going closer that will allow viewers to 'see the pixels'. 75 to pick an arbitrary value between 53 and 100). You may have a constrained PPI (if already printed), a constrained viewing distance (based on the intended usage or space limitations) and/or a PPD you're trying to achieve (e.g. You can easily calculate one of PPD, PPI and viewing distance ( d) based on the other two: PPD = d * PPI * 2 * tan(pi/360) ≈ d * PPI * 0.01745 In short, Apple suggest a minimum 53 PPD, others suggest up to 100 (especially if your vision is better than 20/20). This comes pretty much straight from Apple's Retina display designs, the idea being that our eye can resolve some number of pixels per degree, so the resolution of the image/print must be taken in consideration with the intended viewing distance. I'm going to sort of disagree with all the other answers that talk about DPI or PPI rules of thumb, and suggest two different 'rules' (based on PPD, from another answer of mine) Rule 1 - The 'Retina' rule (aka the Pixels-Per-Degree (PPD) / 'better than your eye can see' rule) The PPI you choose to print at, the size of your image, and the quality of the algorithms you may have used to scale your image up or down, the texture, brightness, thickness, and color of your paper, and the kind of printer all determine how good a photo looks when printed. It is possible to print at a variety of PPI, from as low as 100 to as high as 480 or higher. It is also possible to use image editing software, such as Photoshop or QImage, to digitally blow up your image to a higher resolution, perform some post process sharpening, and print at even larger sizes.īeyond this relatively simple explanation, the discussion of how to translate a photo image to its printed paper size is a relatively complex topic. Sharpening an image before printing, assuming you do so with the proper care, can improve the quality of your printed copies. There are other things you can do with your image to improve its quality when printed. Using this, you could determine what size image you would need for a 2x3 inch print: You can use this formula in reverse as well, to determine the screen pixel size your image would need to be to be for a particular paper size: You could still blow up your 8mp photo and print it at 11x16, or 13x19, and still have a good print. However, this is not a general rule for print is simply a rule for ascertaining the lossless print size for a given image size. That boils down to an 8.5 x 11 print at full resolution without any loss of quality or resolution in the translation between screen and print. If you print at the native "photo quality" PPI of an Epson printer of 300ppi, you would end up with the following: Assuming you have an 8mp camera, your image sizes are likely to be around 3200 x 2400 or so. Screen/camera pixels do not directly translate to print pixels (PPI, pixels per inch), so you need to translate your image pixel size into a print size by dividing your screen pixel sizes by the PPI of your print. ![]() Keep in mind that the quality of a print is often more dependent on what is being printed than its size in megapixels, and even if your image size is not dense enough to mathematically fit onto a certain page size, you can still blow most images up pretty large without significant or noticable loss in quality. There are some general rules you can use to determine the "maximum" (I use that term loosely) print size. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |